Maraschino Liqueur: History, Information, Interesting Facts

The origins of Maraschino liqueur.

According to legend, the recipe for rosolio Maraschino (*1) was born in a Dalmatian monastery in the 16th Century, thanks to a friar pharmacist. In truth, there is no evidence about this story. Only the place of origin is certain: the town of Zara and its surroundings, ruled in the past by the Republic of Venice and nowadays part of the state of Croatia (*2). About this, it’s important to remember that the plants of ‘marasca’, the type of cherry used for this specialty, once grew mainly in this area.
Some scholars claim that the real inventor of Maraschino was the botanist Bartolomeo Ferrari, when he realized that using the ‘marasca’ cherry (including leaf and the hazelnut), it was possible to make an exquisite alcoholic beverage. His method of production was later perfected by the Venetian Giuseppe Carceniga, who optimized the distillation process.
From that moment on, the preparation of this rosolio became very fashionable in Zara (*3), the ‘city of the Maraschino’ (*4): a thousand variations of it were conceived, ‘secret recipes’, each one characterized by particular aromaticity and gradation.
Many factories were built: among them, the most ancient and important were Drioli (in 1759), Luxardo (in 1821) and Vlahov (in 1861).

Notes:
*1: ‘Rosolj’ or ‘Rozolj’, from the Latin ‘ros solis’, ‘sun dew’.
*2: Today the city is known as ‘Zadar’.
*3: Many ladies enjoyed making it at home.
*4: As attested by the famous writer Honorè de Balzac in one of his works.

Maraschino liqueur by Luxardo.

The history of the Luxardos is closely associated to the product that makes them famous worldwide: the Maraschino. A history rich in fascinating events, in many ways similar to a romance.

The first generation: Girolamo Luxardo.

It all began in 1817, when Girolamo Luxardo (*1), entrepreneur of noble origins, moved with his family from Liguria (Region of Italy) to Zara, city that at the time, although in great part populated by Italian-speaking people, was under the control of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (*2). Tradition has it that his wife, the Marquise Maria Canevari, enjoyed very much making at home a typical Dalmatian liqueur, the Maraschino rosolio, using her own ‘secret’ recipe (*3). This liqueur, offered to friends, was so successful as to encourage Girolamo to start up a company in 1821 (*4). For the sake of completeness, it should be said that, most likely, his interest in this rosolio was probably antecedent: his meetings with the famous producer Giacomo Balletti would prove it. During the following years, the recipe of the Marchesa was further improved until, in 1829, the great quality of the Maraschino Luxardo was certified with a ‘privilege’ awarded by the Emperor of Austria (*5). It’s important to remember, in addition to this refined liqueur, other spirits were produced and successfully exported to many countries.

Michelangelo and the new factory.

Luxardo business continued to grow under the guidance of Nicolò (second generation) and his sons Demetrio and Michelangelo (third generation): Maraschino received many awards all over the world, significantly increasing its sales.
This increase in demand led to the construction of a new, modern factory (*6), inaugurated in 1913.

Maraschino: a liqueur much loved by monarchs.

Many European Kings and Queens (*1) of the past have much appreciated the taste of Maraschino. Here follow some illustrious examples:

It is said that a lot of famous people loved Maraschino: people like Giacomo Casanova, the great Venetian seducer, the poet Charles Baudelaire and the director Alfred Hitchcock.

Note:
*1: A purchase note, signed by Auguste de Marmont, Marshal of France and Napoleon’s aide-de-camp, could prove that also the French Emperor enjoyed Maraschino.

Drioli, the first Maraschino liqueur.

It’s not possible to describe properly Maraschino leaving out an important figure such as Francesco Drioli. Venetian diplomat (*1) and merchant (*2), he was the first to believe in the great commercial potential of this liqueur, starting its production on an industrial scale in 1759. Thanks to his business experience, he promoted his product, exporting it all across Europe through a dense network of skilled representatives. Soon he became the official supplier of many royal families, including those of Austria, England and Italy. He was also the first to use bottles with straw wrapping (initially made by the master glassmakers of Murano), the distinctive mark of Maraschino still today.
When he died, having no children, his company was entrusted to the Salghettis, the family of his wife. At the end of the Nineteenth Century, Simeone Salghetti-Drioli patented a pitting machine.
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The Maraschino cherries.

‘Maraschino’ is a sweet and transparent liqueur, produced using a particular type of cherry, the ‘marasca’, fruit of the ‘prunus cerasus’ (*1): this differs from the ‘sweet’ cherry, fruit of the ‘prunus avium’, for a slightly smaller size, a lighter color and a more acid and bitter taste. Its content of vitamin A, C and flavonoids is quite high. Until the middle part of the Twentieth Century, the best marasks were gathered in the Dalmatian territories surrounding the city of Zara (today’s ‘Zadar’): it was the Luxardo family who understood first that the Euganean Hills (located in Italy, not far from Padua ), could represent a more than valid alternative (*2), starting what would become one of the main maraschets in Europe.

Notes:
*1: Many scholars suggest that this plant could be from Asia Minor. Black cherries and sour cherries are gathered from other varieties of the ‘cerasus’.
*2: Choice facilitated by the precious help of the famous agronomist Alessandro Morettini of the University of Florence.
(More info).

How Maraschino is made.

Maraschino is prepared in ways that may slightly differ according to the producer. The main phases of the industrial process are listed below:

1) Fermentation: the pulp of maraschino cherries (resulting from their soft pressing), is fermented. Some companies use the whole fruit, since stones imparts almond flavor and leaves release precious herbaceous scents.
2) Pressing: the fermented fruit is pressed to extract its liquid part.
3) Infusion: the liquid part of the fermented fruit is infused with alcohol (*1) inside vats made with porous wood (often larch). An aging stage may follow.
4) Distillation: this phase is carried out by discontinuous copper alembics using steam heating (*2). With this method it’s possible to discard the ‘head’ and the ‘tail’ of the infusion, its ‘unpeasant’ parts, keeping just the best, the ‘heart’ (*3).
5) Refining: a syrup made with water and sugar is added to the distillate. This sweetens its taste and lowers its alcohol content (the desired result is 30% / 32%). The liqueur then ages for two years in Finnish ash barrels: during this period of time its taste becomes more ’round’ and pleasant.

Notes:
*1: The liqueur (or, better, ‘rosolio’) made by the Marquise Canevari ( ‘forefather’ of Luxardo Maraschino), was the result of infusion, without distillation.
*2: In the discontinuous distillation, the liquid mixture that is being distilled, once exhausted, is completely replaced, restarting the process. This method is generally used for valuable distillates.
*3: The separation of these parts from each other is a physical process, depending on their different boiling points.

Drinks with Maraschino liqueur.

The taste of Maraschino, perfectly enjoyable ‘straight’, gives its best in cocktails. Some are very famous, among them it’s important to remember:

The ‘Martinez’ (1860)

The cocktail that many consider the ‘father’ of the ‘Martini’, started to be served at the Occidental Hotel in San Francisco during the second half of the Nineteenth Century. It’s accurately described in the ‘Bar-Tender’s Guide’ by Jerry Thomas. In addition to maraschino, its main ingredients are: Boker’s (Angostura) Bitters, Old Tom Gin and Italian sweet Vermouth. It’s usually garnished with lemon or orange peel.

The ‘Aviation’ (1916)

Invented in the early years of the 20th century by the bartender Hugo Ensslin at the Hotel Wallick in New York, it’s described in his guide ‘Recipes for Mixed Drinks’ (1916).
In addition to maraschino, its main ingredients are: gin, ‘Crème de violette’ (liqueur giving the cocktail its typical purple color) and lemon juice.

‘The Last Word’ (early 20s)

Cocktail invented at the Detroit Athletic Club, private club in Detroit (USA), during the years of alcohol Prohibition. In addition to the maraschino, its main ingredients are: gin, ‘Chartreuse’ and lemon juice.

The ‘Hemingway Special’ (40s)

The ‘Hemingway Special’ is the evolution of one of the favorite drinks of the famous writer Hernest Hemingway: the ‘Floridita Daiquiri’ (tipical specialty of the celebrated bar / restaurant ‘Floridita’ located in Havana, Cuba). In addition to maraschino, its main ingredients are: rum, grapefruit juice and lime juice.

Luxardo and advertisements.

The Luxardos, since the birth of their company, have paid great attention to the promotion of their products. Above all, obviously, their top specialties: the ‘Maraschino’ and the ‘Sangue Morlacco’. Some posters and flyers, commissioned by the family, are counted among the earliest examples of advertising dedicated to liqueurs. Real works of art, testifying the spirit and the style of their own periods. Here follow some examples:

Zara: the city of Maraschino.

The city of Zara was for hundreds of years, together with Dalmatia, under the rule of the Republic of Venice. In 1797 the Austro-Hungarian Empire replaced the Serenissima: a dominion that lasted until the end of the First World War, when the entire region became Italian. The World War II caused its annexation to Yugoslavia. Nowadays it’s part of the Republic of Croatia. Despite all these changes, often quite traumatic, Zara has remained the ‘city of Maraschino’: an important distinguishing mark, achieved thanks to the commitment of great entrepreneur families, above all the Driolis, the Vlahovs and the Luxardos. Today only the latter remains to represent the tradition of a liquor famous worldwide.

Barcagno: the Luxardo’s Palace.

‘Palazzo del Barcagno’ was the true symbol of the entrepreneurial success of the Luxardos and of their flagship product, the ‘Maraschino’. It was built in 1913 by Michelangelo Luxardo on an area adjacent to the port, the ‘Barcagno’. A famous Austrian architect was chosen to design it: he gave the building a very ‘Viennese’ appearance. The structure housed the family apartments, the administrative offices and, on the ground floor, a large bottling area. It was part of a larger industrial complex, including a distillery and many warehouses: at the time the plant was considered one of the largest and most modern in the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
The Allied bombings that devastated Zara between 1941 and 1944, ended up destroying the factory, causing serious damage to the ‘palazzo’ (*1). The final step was its confiscation by the Yugoslav government.

Note:
*1: the structure was repaired by its new owners and can be admired still today on the Zara promenade.

Torreglia, the new home of Maraschino.

Located on the slopes of the Euganean Hills, the Municipality of Torreglia is the new home of the Girolamo Luxardo S.p.a. The origins of this town are very old: archaeological discoveries have proved that there are settlements in the area since the Neolithic. The Romans were the first to appreciate the fertility of this territory, a characteristic mainly due to its volcanic origins. During the Middle Ages, the ecclesiastical authorities carried out, among other things, reclamation works, thus contributing to the development of agriculture.

In the Fifteenth Century this zone was annexed to the Republic of Venice: an influence witnessed by the presence of sumptuous villas that still today embellish the landscape. Among these, it’s important to mention the magnificent Villa dei Vescovi, in the district of Luvignano.
Starting from the Nineteenth Century, Torreglia began to depend on tourism, driven by the beauty of its places and the proximity to renowned spas. A dense entrepreneurial fabric started to develop after the second post-war period.

THE MOST TRADITIONAL PRODUCER

This article is the fruit of the collaboration between WebFoodCulture and Luxardo S.p.a., the most traditional producer of Maraschino liqueur. The information provided illustrate the actual characteristics of the specialty.

Luxardo’s factory is in Torreglia, a small town located on the slopes of the Euganean Hills, not far from the city of Padua, in the Italian region of Veneto.

Honorè De Balzac, the great French writer and playwright, mentioned Maraschino in one of his novels, ‘Un debut dans la vie’ (1842): “… it was in the city where Maraschino is produced. Zara. I was there. It’s on the coast … “.

One of the elements that most characterize Maraschino is undoubtedly its packaging: a bottle with a square base and short neck.
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The name ‘Maraschino’ derives from that of the particular type of cherry used to make this liqueur, the ‘marasca’ (or ‘amarasca’): its name, in turn, derives from the Latin word ‘amarus’, whose meaning is ‘bitter’.

Some scholars hypothesize that the cherry tree was first introduced in Italy by the Roman general and aristocrat Lucius Licinius Lucullus, returning from a military campaign in Pontus (a region in the north-eastern part of today’s Turkey). A credible thesis, especially considering the great love of this personality for delicious food: in fact, it’s no coincidence that even today the most refined and abundant meals are defined ‘lucullan’.

A short selection of songs composed by Vivaldi, the greatest Venetian musician, is probably the best choice to accompany the reading of this article:

Note: join Spotify and listen to the full song.

Maraschino is often linked to the word ‘excelsior’: this word derives from ‘fraxinus excelsior’, the type of wood used to make the barrels in which the liquor ages (*1).
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Maraschino, since the beginning of its industrial-scale production (in the Mid-Eighteenth Century), was exported to most European countries. There is evidence that it started to be commercialized in the United States as early as the second half of the 19th Century. Initially this specialty, due to its high price, could be afforded only by aristocrats and wealthy people.

Such was the fame of the Maraschino in the early 1900s to be served in the luxurious halls of the famous RMS Titanic, during his first (and last) voyage. It’s fascinating to think that a bottle of this liqueur could still be found in the wreck of the ship, lying on the seabed, thousands of meters underwater.

Over the years the Luxardo family has repeatedly shown a profound attachment to Italy. It’s therefore not surprising that the bottle of Maraschino, the flagship product of their company, bears the colors of the flag of this country: white (on the label), red (on the capsule) and green (of glass).

‘Sangue Morlacco’, the flagship product of Luxardo Company together with Maraschino, owes its name to a personality of the past, very famous especially in Italy: Gabriele D’Annunzio.
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The ideal starting point to reach the Luxardo Factory is Padua (not far from Venice). From this city, head towards the Municipality of Torreglia, at the feet of the Euganean Hills.

Girolamo Luxardo S.p.A.