Venetian Frittelle: History, Information, Interesting Facts

History of the Venetian Frittelle.

It’s almost impossible to establish with certainty the date of birth of the ‘frittella’. As often happens when dealing with a typical Italian specialty, some experts trace its origins back to ancient Rome (*1).
It seems there is a document of the Fourteenth Century (*2) describing a kind of pastry quite similar.
One of the first evidences dates back to the Renaissance and is contained in a cooking treatise (*3) by Bartolomeo Scappi, ‘master in the art of cooking’ (‘maestro nell’arte del cucinare’) and personal chef of the Popes Pius IV and Pius V. In this monumental work, Scappi illustrates the recipes of different types of ‘Frittelle’, both sweet and savory, including the ‘frittella alla venetiana’ (the ‘Venetian frittella’).
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‘Fritoleri’: the ancient makers of Venetian Frittelle.

The ‘Fritoleri’ were the Venetian artisans who, many years ago, prepared and sold the ‘Frittelle’. They were very interesting people, easily recognizable for the large white apron they wore and for the small jar full of sugar (*1) they waved with colorful gestures to attract the attention of passersby.
Their ‘office’ was, in fact, the street: some of them were peddlers, some others, the wealthiest, had rectangular shacks, housing the ‘tools of trade’, including great wooden tables and large pans. The front of these ‘shops’, was intended to display the exquisite preparations. Once ready, the ‘fritole’ were carefully placed on elaborately decorated metal plates (*2), surrounded by their ingredients (*3). The meaning of such a presentation was to lure potential customers showing the quality of the product.

‘Globulos’, the ancestors of Frittelle.

‘Globulos’ are often considered the true ancestors of the ‘frittelle’. They were prepared in ancient Rome during the celebration of the ‘Saturnalia’ (*1), mixing together durum wheat flour and cheese. This dough was used to make little balls, which were then fried in lard and seasoned with honey and and poppy seeds. It’s possible to find an accurate description of the recipe in the ‘De Agri culture’, one of the works by Marco Porcio Catone, famous Roman general, intellectual and politician.

Note:
*1: Celebration held in the (current) month of December, in honor of the god Saturn.

The stuffed Venetian Frittelle.

As already specified in this article, the original Venetian ‘fritola’ is not stuffed, but a ‘variation’ actually exists. It’s very successful, considering that nowadays it’s as famous as the traditional one. The classic ‘stuffed fritola’, as it should be called, is usually filled with custard or eggnog cream (*1).
The pastry shops and the bakers in which it’s easy to come across strolling through the ‘calli’ (*2), seem to compete with each other in filling this exquisite specialty as much as possible.

Notes:
*1: Other types of filling may be used sometime.
*2: ‘Calli’, the narrow streets of Venice.

Sugar for Venetian Frittelle.

As already mentioned in another paragraph of this article, one of the details that made the ‘fritoleri’, the ‘artists of the fritola’, easily recognizable, was the casual use of a small jar to spread sugar on their exquisite preparations. Such ease, although nowadays may seem quite common, once was not so normal: for many centuries sugar was considered a rare commodity. A precious spice, since it had to be imported from very distant lands and, for this reason, it was used as a sweetener only by the wealthy classes. Common people had to settle for honey, being careful not to use too much of it.
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‘Castagnole’.

Speaking about the typical Venetian carnival desserts, it’s important to mention the ‘castagnole’ (*1). Being smaller in size, they can be considered, in a way, the ‘little sisters’ of the fritole (*2).
They are prepared using a mixture of flour, eggs, butter and sugar (*3). The dough is cut in pieces, used to make tiny balls: these are fried in oil (*4) and garnished with sugar.

Notes:
*1: They are also known as ‘fave’ or ‘favette’.
*2: The ‘castagnole’ have also greater consistency than the ‘fritole’.
*3: They have generally no filling.
*4: There is a variant, more dietetic but less tasty, cooked in the oven.

The Venetian Carnival and its pastries.

‘Carnival’ has its roots in a distant past: some experts trace its origins back to ancient times, even before the Roman ‘Saturnali’ and the Greek ‘Dionysiache’, events very similar to this festivity under many aspects.
What all these celebrations have in common is a spirit of renewal, getting new life at the beginning of each year: this results in a temporary suspension of rules in favor of chaos, considered the strongest force of creation.

A sort of ‘beneficial disorder’, main character in the theatrical representation that is the true essence of Carnival, allowing transgressions usually forbidden and a momentary subversion of the social order, thanks to which, for a few days, the poor are allowed to disguise as the rich and vice versa (*1).

It’s easy to understand why masks play a fundamental role in this great game.
Those made in Venice are among the most beautiful: a true form of art, blending culture, imagination and colors, thanks to the virtuosity of skilled craftsmen.
Carnival has been celebrated in the city since 1094 (*2): a city famous worldwide for the beauty of its places, for its scents and its flavors. Perfumes and flavors that can be found, for example, in particular pastry specialties, prepared only during this festivity: ‘Frittelle’ (‘Fritole’ or ‘Fritoe’) and ‘Galani’.

Notes:
*1: The special freedom granted to the people (anyway subject to strict monitoring), had the great advantage to be a sort of ‘safety valve’ for social tensions.
*2: The first document containing a reference to the Venetian Carnival, dates back to the year 1094 and was written by the famous Doge Vitale Falier.

‘Frittelle’ are made in Venice during the Carnival. This city, one of the most famous in the world, is in the Italian region of Veneto.

THE MOST TRADITIONAL PASTRY SHOP

It’s quite difficult to determine which is the most ancient pastry shop in Venice preparing Frittelle. Until we find it out, please refer to the following list including some of the most traditional places.
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Pasticceria Rizzardini
Sestiere San Polo 1415 Campiello dei Meloni
30125 Venice – Italy
Tel. +39 041 522 3835
Pasticceria Rosa Salva
San Marco 950
30124 Venice – Italy
Tel. +39 041 521 0544

The etymology of the word ‘Carnival’.

There are several theories about the origins of the word ‘Carnival’ (in Italian, ‘carnevale’).
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Venetian Frittelle, when?

In the city of Venice, Frittelle should be sold, at least theoretically, starting from the day after Epiphany, until Mardi Gras. It’s more a habit than a rule, part of an ancient tradition, nowadays frequently disregarded.

Venetian carnival and Vivaldi.

Vivaldi’s music to accompany a stroll through the Venetian ‘calli’, enjoying an exquisite ‘fritoea’:

Note: join Spotify and listen to the full songs.

Venetian Frittelle recipe.

Here follows a video (in Italian) showing how to make the ‘fritole’:

Or, as the Venetians would say, “e fritoe col buso”.
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1549, the recipe book known as ‘Banchetti composizione di vivande e apparecchio generale’ (‘banquets, food and general organization’) is published (*1).
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Venetian Frittelle in painting.

‘Frittelle’ are a kind of dessert that can be found in many paintings, both Italian and foreign. Here follow some examples:
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‘Venditrice di frittelle’: oil on panel, 1650, by the Dutch painter Gerrit Dou. Uffizi Museum, Florence.
‘Frittelle vendor’, oil on canvas, 1757, by the Italian painter Pietro Longhi. Cà Rezzonico, Venice.
‘Venditore di frittelle’, 1785, print by Gaetano Zompini, included in the book ‘Le arti che vanno per via (nella citta di Venezia)’.

‘Malvasia’ wines for Venetian Frittelle.

In the city of Venice, as in the rest of Europe, starting from the Middle Ages and for many centuries after, the ‘Malvasia’ or, better said, the ‘Malvasie’, were considered among the finest wines (*1).