Balsamic Vinegar: History, Info, Interesting Facts

What is Balsamic Vinegar?

Balsamic Vinegar is a particular type of vinegar produced with grape must in two varieties:

Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI:
Made with grape must (cooked and / or concentrated), wine vinegar and, if required, a minimum percentage of caramel. Its aging in wooden barrels lasts from 60 days up to 3 years: if prolonged, the product gets the title of ‘Aged’ (‘Invecchiato’).
The specialty is protected by the European Union with the PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) trademark. Its grapes come from 7 typical vines, listed in the Production Regulations. The mixing of its ingredients, its maturation and aging processes, as well as its final certification must take place in the territories of the Provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia, whereas bottling can be carried out elsewhere.

Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO and Reggio Emilia PDO:
These specialties are prepared using only cooked must, made with grapes from the provinces, respectively, of Modena and Reggio Emilia. Both are characterized by a very long aging period, lasting from a minimum of 12 years, up to 25 for the extra-old type (‘extravecchio’).
They are protected by the European Union with the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) trademark. The entire production process, from the cultivation of grapes to bottling, must take place in the territory of the respective province.

In the past, the dark color and the great value of this delicacy have earned it the nickname of ‘black gold’ (‘oro nero’).

The origins of vinegar.

Vinegar is a product of very ancient origins: suffice to say that its use for the preservation of food favored the development of agriculture and the resulting, progressive sedentarization of nomadic hunting communities. Its contribution to the birth and development of the first civilizations was, therefore, huge: archaeological finds show that it was already in use by the Egyptians and the Babylonians. Later on, it also spread among the Greeks and the Romans, who used it, among other things, as a condiment, medicine (*1), to sterilize water and in the preparation of drinks (*2).
It’s also important to remember that the process by which vinegar is formed was unknown to all these peoples: a mystery that lasted many centuries, until, in the Nineteenth Century, the French chemist Louis Pasteur formulated a complete scientific explanation (*3).

Notes:

The history of Balsamic Vinegar.

It’s possible that the Romans invented Balsamic Vinegar or, to be more precise, what by all means could be considered its ancestor, the ‘Sapa’ (or ‘Saba’) (*1): a dense and sweetish syrup with multiple uses (*2), prepared by cooking and reducing grape must (*3). Many are the ancient writers who refer to it in their works, including Virgil, Pliny the Elder and Ovid. Columella’s testimony is very interesting: in the ‘De re rustica’ he indicates the territories corresponding to the current provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia as particularly suited to its production (*4).

During the early Middle Ages, rumors spread about a ‘black gold’, characterized by qualities so legendary to become the object of the desire of a king: Henry II of Franconia (*5). This ‘black gold’, most likely, was nothing but the product currently known as Balsamic Vinegar, something considered so precious to be kept in small silver bottles.
The fame of the specialty grew further over the centuries, so much to be mentioned, at the end of the Renaissance, in a work (*6) by Bartolomeo Scappi, the ‘cook of the Popes’.
In the same period, the history of balsamic vinegar began to intertwine with that of the Dukes of Este, who had moved to the city of Modena. During the expansion of the Ducal Palace (Palazzo Ducale), Francesco I d’Este commissioned the fitting of an ‘acetaia’ (a vinegar cellar) in the spaces of the Torre del Prato.
The first document associating the word ‘balsamico’ to the vinegar from Modena is the Register of Ducal cellars (1747): in addition to ‘common vinegar’ (‘aceto comune’), it refers to the ‘balsamic medium’ (‘mezzo balsamico’) and to the ‘fine balsamic’ (‘balsamico fine’). It’s believed that the use of this term could be related to the medicinal qualities (‘balsamic’) of the product and to its aroma.

The arrival of the Napoleonic troops in Modena in 1796 marked an epochal change for Balsamic Vinegar. Its economic value was immediately recognized by the French and the Ducal ‘acetaia’ was sold at auction: some wealthy bourgeois families took advantage of the situation by purchasing its ancient barrels. The commercial regulations issued by the newly formed Cisalpine Republic favored trades and Balsamic Vinegar, no longer prerogative of aristocratic families, was released to the market.
After the proclamation of the Kingdom of Italy, the producers of the ‘Balsamico’ began to participate to the recurring International Exhibitions: of particular importance was the International Exhibition of Paris in 1878, where it was definitely sanctioned the value of the specialty, recognizing its uniqueness in terms of taste and aroma.
The great success led to a differentiation in the production processes and the commercialization of a bittersweet and fragrant vinegar, more affordable and suitable for daily use. Two products emerged, known today as the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI and the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar PDO (of Modena and Reggio Emilia), protected by the EU and promoted by their respective Consortia.

Notes:
*1: Also known as ‘defrutum’ or ‘caraenum’, depending on the density of the liquid.
*2: It was used, among other things, as a condiment (often mixed with the ‘Garum’, a sauce made with macerated fish) or as wine (thanks to the addition of water).
*3: Thanks to the reduction, must could no longer ferment and could withstand long journeys without altering.
*4: Columella points out that, sometimes, must fermented giving life to a specialty that, once aged, was very appetizing (the writer was unknowingly talking about the delicacy covered by this article).
*5: The chronicles of the time narrate that, in 1046, Boniface of Canossa (father of the famous Matilde), to get in good with King Henry, gave him a barrel of ‘defrutum’.
*6: ‘Opera. Dell’arte del cucinare’ (1570) by Bartolomeo Scappi, ‘secret cook’ of the Popes Pius IV and Pius IV.

Aceto Balsamico: le zone di produzione.

The original Balsamic Vinegar of Modena and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar (from Modena and from Reggio Emilia), must meet a series of requisites (*1). Among these, their respective production areas:
Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI: according to Article 3 of the product specification of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI, its production “must be carried out in the administrative territory of the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia”. According to Article 5, “the production stages that must take place in the geographical area of origin are the assembly of the raw materials, the processing, the refinement and/or the aging in wooden containers”. The other stages, such as bottling, can take place outside these territories.
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO: According to Article 3 of the product specification of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO, the grapes used to make it “must be produced in the traditional territory of the Province of Modena”. According to Article 5, “the processing, mandatory aging and bottling operations” must also take place in the same territory.
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia PDO: According to Article 3 of the product specification of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia PDO, the grapes used to make it “must be produced in the traditional territory of the Province of Reggio Emilia”. According to Article 5, “the processing, mandatory aging and bottling operations” must also take place in the same territory.

Note:
*1: These requisites can be found in their product specifications documents.

The original ‘Balsamico’.

Although in many countries around the world companies are trying to make their own ‘Balsamic Vinegar’, history itself shows that the only true heirs of its ancient tradition are the Emilian producers represented by the three ‘Balsamic’ Consortia:
The Consortium of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI;
The Consortium of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO;
The Consortium of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia PDO;
Due to its great commercial success, during the time the ‘Balsamic’ has been subject to many imitation attempts: the assignment of the PGI and PDO Designations of Origin by the European Union was intended as a form of protection.
But what really guarantees its unique characteristics is the centuries-old experience of its makers and the strict observance of the product specification.

How Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI is made?

Here follow the steps to make Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI:

The provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia have been for centuries the cradles of ‘Balsamic’ Vinegar. They are both located in Emilia, the western part of the Italian Region of Emilia-Romagna.

THE MOST TRADITIONAL PRODUCERS

This article is the fruit of the collaboration between WebFoodCulture, the Consortium for the Protection of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena and the Consortium for the Protection of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, the organizations bringing together the most traditional producers of the dairy specialty. The information provided illustrate the actual characteristics of the product.

Click here to view (and, eventually, download) a printable schema showing the steps necessary to produce Balcamic Vinegar of Modena.

The Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO and that of Reggio Emilia are produced with must from the grapes of the most famous local vines: Trebbiano and Lambrusco above all.
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The word ‘vinegar’ derives from the composition of two Latin words: ‘vinum’ (‘wine’) and ‘acre’ (‘acid’). The French ‘vinaigre’ derives from the same words.
In this regard, it’s interesting to note that the Italian term ‘aceto’ comes from ‘acetum’: name for the condiment already used at the time of ancient Rome.

Fifteen grams of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI (one portion) contains about twenty-two calories.
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The great tenor Luciano Pavarotti, born in the city of Modena, was notoriously a great lover of good food. Continue.

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The International Exhibitions organized at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries were particularly important to advertise the ‘Balsamico’ of Modena and Reggio Emilia outside the Italian national borders. The image above shows a coin celebrating the event held in Paris in 1878.

Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO can be marketed exclusively in a particular type of bottle, designed in 1987 by the famous Italian automotive designer Giorgetto Giugiaro to become a distinctive element of the product. Bottling can only take place in a center authorized by the Ministry of Agriculture.

There are some condiments on the market that, although cannot be considered Balsamic Vinegar, are prepared with a similar technique. Continue.

Over the years, the European Union has recognized the qualities and uniqueness of the Balsamic Vinegar produced in the area of the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia. Continue.

To deepen the knowledge of Balsamic Vinegar finding out all its charm, we recommend reading the book ‘Il Balsamico, the black gold of Modena’, patronized by both the Protection Consortia. It will be possible to buy it shortly on the Artioli Editore 1899 website.

Consortium for the Protection of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI
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