Sicilian Cannoli: History, Information, Interesting Facts

The origin of the name ‘Cannolo’.

Where does the name ‘cannolo’ (*1) come from? There are two hypotheses. The first one, the most credible, suggests that it comes from ‘canna’, the Italian for river cane: this was once used to roll the dough to make the ‘scorza’ (*2), also known as ‘buccia’ (peel). Nowadays, for hygiene reasons, canes have been replaced by special steel cylinders. They are probably more healthy and practical, but also much less ‘romantic’.

The second hypothesis derives from a legend. It is said that once upon a time, during the Carnival, some cream mysteriously came out from the tap of a fountain, whose Italian translation is also ‘canna’. In truth, it was just a joke, a little trick devised to make fun of a passer-by. Many think this is how the famous dessert got its name (*3).

Notes:
*1: In the Italian language, ‘Cannoli’ is the plural of ‘Cannolo’.
*2: The ‘scorza’ is also known as ‘scoccia’ or ‘scorcia’.
*3: Some people claim that this joke led not only to the invention of the name but also of the pastry itself.

The history of Sicilian Cannoli.

It’s very difficult to determine with precision the real origins of the delicious dessert known as ‘Cannolo’: that’s most probably because Sicily, the Italian island usually considered its birthplace, over the centuries was subjected to the domination and to the cultural influence of many civilizations very different from each other.
If on one hand this clearly represents a source of enrichment, on the other it causes great confusion.
Here follow some of the most interesting theories:

Cicero’s Cannoli:

According to historians, something very similar to a Cannolo already existed in the Roman period. In 70 BC, in one of his literary works, the great orator Marcus Tullius Cicero mentioned a:

“tubus farinarius, dulcissimo, edulio ex lacte factus”

(“A tube prepared with flour and stuffed with a very sweet filling made of milk”)

These words prove that a ‘primordial’ form of this pastry could date back to the Classical Age.

The ingredients of Sicilian Cannoli.

Even if in Sicily Cannoli have a common, basic recipe, it’s important to notice that there are actually some differences, depending on the province where they are prepared.

Here follows a list of the ingredients most frequently used and some possible alternatives:

The ingredients for the ‘scorza’:

The ‘scorza’, the container, is prepared using a dough made with flour, lard, sugar and wine (generally Marsala). Once the dough has risen, it’s stretched and cut in small discs: these are rolled on metal cylinders and finally fried in lard or olive oil until an even browning is achieved.

Note:
*1: In the city of Palermo, lard is also known as ‘saimi’: this term comes from the word ‘saim’, once used by the Spaniards.

The ingredients of the filling:

The main ingredient for the filling of a Cannolo is ricotta cheese, made exclusively with sheep’s milk. The only exception are the Cannoli prepared in the city of Ragusa, where vaccine milk is used instead. Sometimes the filling is enriched with chocolate drops or different types of candied fruit.

The toppings:

When a Cannolo is ready, it’s usually dusted with a thin veil of powdered sugar.
Its sides can be garnished in different ways. The toppings most frequently used are:

• Candied oranges;
• Candied cherries;
• Chopped pistachios;
• Hazelnuts;

The filling for Sicilian Cannoli.

One of the most important characteristics of a very good Cannolo is the balance between the crispness of its container, the ‘scorza’, and the softness of its filling, the ‘farcitura’. The right combination of these two different textures is a fundamental feature of this pastry, something that must be achieved and preserved at all costs, especially by preventing the moisture of ricotta cheese from softening the waffle. That’s why the best Cannoli should be filled just a few minutes before they are served.
In case this dessert is not going to be eaten immediately, some pastry shops prefer to sell the ‘scorza’ and the ‘farcitura’ separately: this way their customers can combine the two parts when it’s needed. Some other shops use a different method, by covering the inner surface of the scorza with a thin layer of chocolate, thus ‘shielding’ it from the moisture.

Sicilian Cannoli and pistachios.

Chopped pistachios are probably the best topping for Cannoli. Those cultivated in Bronte, a small village near the city of Catania, are particularly delicious. They come from plants growing on the rugged lava soils of Mount Etna, one of the largest volcanoes in Europe.
In 2009 the EU recognized their quality and granted them the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO).
In Sicilian dialect, the name for pistachio is ‘frastuca’, a word of Arab origins.

Many beautiful places, many types of Cannoli.

There are many types of Cannoli in Sicily: their differences depend on the province where they are prepared. It’s just impossible to say which one is the best: it’s just a matter of taste!
These are the most famous and appreciated:

Notes:
*1: Great part of the citizens of this village are descendants of a group of refugees from Albania, arrived in the Fifteenth Century fleeing from the Ottoman army invading their country. Many of them speak the language of their ancestors still today.
*2: They are also famous for their huge size.

Cicero: a great fan of Cannoli.

Marcus Tullius Cicero is widely considered one of the most important orators of all time. His legendary ability derived from innate dialectical skills, improved by a deep knowledge of the Greek literature. Since he was young he had a great passion for translating ancient texts: thanks to him, the Hellenistic philosophy spread in Rome.
His enthusiastic civil commitment found its expression in the political career: the ‘cursus honorum’. In 76 BC he was appointed superintendent in Sicily: he distinguished himself as a competent and honest administrator and obtained the trust of the citizens. This is probably why he was assigned with the task of conducting the prosecution against Verre, a corrupt magistrate.
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The Italian region of Sicily is an island located at center of the Mediterranean. A very fascinating place that, over the millennia, has hosted a great number of civilizations.

THE MOST TRADITIONAL PASTRY SHOP

It’s quite difficult to determine which is the most ancient pastry shop of Palermo preparing Cannoli.
Continue.

Until we find it out, please refer to the following list including some of the most traditional places.
I Segreti del Chiostro
Piazza Bellini, 33, 90133 – Palermo (Italy)
Official website
Pasticceria Cappello
Via Colonna Rotta, 68 – Palermo (Italy)
Official website
Pasticceria Oscar
Via Mariano Migliaccio, 39, 90145 – Palermo (Italy)
Official website

Cannolo is a pastry rich in symbolic meaning: a fascinating mix of sacred and profane.
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A selection of traditional Sicilian songs are most probably the best choice to accompany the reading of this article:

Note: join Spotify and listen to the full song.

A simplified map of Sicily may be useful to locate the places where the best Cannoli are made. Please click on the image above to enlarge it.

One of the best occasions to taste a delicious ‘Cannolo’ is without doubts the ‘Cannoli Festival’. This festival is held every year during Carnival in ‘Piana degli Albanesi’, near the city of Palermo.

“Beddi cannola di Carnilivari,
megghiu vuccuni a lu munnu un ci nn’è;
su’ biniditti spisi li dinari,
ogni cannolu è scettru di ogni Re;
arrivanu li donni a disirtari:
lu cannolu è la virga di Moisè. […] “

(Sicilian poetry, XVII century)

During the last few years a very special type of Cannolo has become fashionable in Sicily: it’s the ‘decontructed Cannolo’ (Cannolo ‘scomposto’).
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‘Cannolicchi’ (or ‘cannulicchi’) are a special type of Cannoli, characterized by their small size. The most famous are prepared in the city of Palermo.

Little known facts about Sicilian Cannoli.

Here follow a few interesting facts about Sicilian Cannoli:
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In Sicily, Cannoli should be given as a present to friends and relatives in a number of twelve (the months of the year) or its multiples, as a wish for good luck and prosperity.
Cannolo is one of the Italian Traditional Foods (PAT).
Cannoli were once made just during the Carnival period, nowadays they are prepared throughout the year.

What to drink with some delicious Cannoli? A good choice is a sweet wine, with a good acidity and persistence. For example, Marsala or Moscato from Pantelleria.

The sweetnes balances that of the Cannolo.
The taste and smell persistence accompanies that of the Cannolo.